The preferred method for wood veneer application is a vacuum, cold, or hot veneer press with white or yellow glue.
If a press is not available, quality contact cement may be used, but keep in mind that is not the method we recommend.
Feel like a video will help? See how-to apply wood veneer to MDF using contact cement below:
CONTACT CEMENT TIPS
THE BEST KINDS OF CONTACT CEMENT
Look for contact cement with the highest level of solids and follow the adhesive manufacturer instructions. Keep in mind flammable contact cement often works better than non-flammable.
STIR YOUR ADHESIVE
Stirring your contact cement is an absolute must before each use, just as in painting. The solids and solvents must be mixed thoroughly to form the best bond.
Before applying your contact cement make sure to wipe the backer portion of your veneer sheet down with a tack cloth or microfiber cloth. This will remove any dust or debris that could potentially compromise the glue line and create problems in the glue line itself.
DON’T USE A “J” ROLLER
It's critical to use maximum pressure when smoothing out the veneer. When using contact cement, a pinch roller alone is not enough. When pressing flexible wood veneer to a suitable substrate, the amount of pressure necessary to achieve a good bond is greater than when applying high pressure laminates to a substrate.
A flexible wood scraper should also be used in conjunction with the pinch roller.
Do not use a J-roller, as it does not allow you to apply enough pressure directly onto the veneer. To avoid bubbling when hand pressing your veneer on the boards, be sure to start in the middle of the board and work your way to the outer edges. Use a piece of scrap wood approximately 12" long and 6" wide as a veneer scraper. Lightly sand the 6" edge to take the sharpness away.
The smaller the edge the better as it will produce the greatest pressure. A 1/16" edge will produce 4 times more pressure than a 1/4" edge. Holding the scraper with both hands and, using it like a wooden squeegee, smooth out the veneer from the center outward to the edges.
EXTERIOR APPLICATION TIP
While paper-backed veneer is intended for interior use, it can be used on an exterior surface only if an epoxy application is used.
SUBSTRATE TIPS
BOND YOUR VENEER TO A SUITABLE SUBSTRATE
Veneer must be bonded to a suitable substrate of a reliable quality. MDF (medium density fiberboard) is the most stable substrate, followed by industrial particleboard, veneer-core plywood, and the least stable substrate is hardwood. On plywood substrate, two coats of adhesive must be applied. Apply the first coat and let dry completely before applying the second. One coat is all that is necessary on the veneer. Installation over substrates that have been treated with a fire-retardant agent is not recommended without consulting either the substrate or your adhesive manufacturer first.
DON’T APPLY DIRECTLY TO PLASTER, DRYWALL, OR CONCRETE
Do not apply veneer directly to drywall, plaster walls, or concrete walls. Delamination can occur. Veneer should be applied to a MDF substrate and then installed over these surfaces.
MELAMINE COATED
Do not apply veneer to a two-sided melamine coated board. Do not sand melamine from a two-sided melamine board to apply veneer, as bubbling could result. If the board comes from a manufacturer with one side melamine and the other side raw, you may apply the veneer to the raw side of the board.
ACCLIMATION TIPS
ACCLIMATE YOUR WOOD VENEER
Veneer is generally shipped rolled into a box. Prior to installation, it is important to unroll it and let it sit in the same environment where it will remain after installation for a minimum of 48 hours. This helps to ensure that sudden changes in humidity don't lead to fast contractions or expansions that could result in cracking. Make sure that both the surface to be covered and the back of the veneer are free of dust, dirt, oil, grease, or any foreign matter.
AVOID SEALING IN TOO MUCH MOISTURE
To avoid sealing in too much moisture, it is best to finish the veneer when the humidity is less than 51%, as the veneer may shrink when placed in a climate-controlled environment.
USE CONTACT CEMENT WITH THE MOST SOLIDS
Wood veneers rely 100% on the adhesive for successful installation. Ask your supplier which content cement contains the most solids. Even though it is more expensive, it will go much farther and will be less costly in the long run. Both the veneer back and the substrate require 100% contact cement coverage. Often, as with plywood, bending board or any other porous substrate a second coat is recommended on the substrate, as the first coat may be partially absorbed. The first coat is acting as a sealer, the second coat is the glue.
DRYING TIPS
ALLOW PROPER DRYING TIME BETWEEN COATS
Allow the proper drying time (“flash time”) between coats. Normally there is a generous window of time. Glues should be completely dry before applying the veneer. Anything less creates the risk of a weak bond between the two glue lines. Rushing can lead to solvent pockets appearing as bubbles.
ALLOW PROPER DRYING TIME
After applying veneer, allow adhesive to dry 24 hours before applying any finish. Apply the finish in light, even coats. Two thin coats are always better than one heavy coat. Allow 24 hours drying time between stain and sealer to let the stain totally dry.
FINISHING TIPS
FINISHING WITH 2-PART CATALYST
When finishing veneer with two-part catalyzed finishes, be careful not to make your finish too thick. Some finishes will crack or check when they are more than 4 mils thick. Check with your finish manufacturer. Vinyl sanding sealer is a good choice when sealing your furniture, as it has excellent moisture and vapor resistance.
CHECK FINISH INSTRUCTIONS
Check finish instructions to make sure that you have the proper time and temperature for your veneer to dry. (Example: catalyst finish should dry at 68-75-degrees for six to eight hours.) It may be a good idea to take a short course on stains and finishes. Some companies offer these courses for little or no money. They can be most helpful. M.L. Campbell is one such company.
WATER-BORN STAINS AND FINISHES
Water-born stains and finishes are not recommended for finishing veneer unless you seal the veneer with a vinyl or acrylic sanding sealer first.
SANDING TIPS
Actually, sanding veneer is not necessary, because all of Oakwood's veneer sheets are sold pre-sanded. Some people have reasons for sanding anyway, and necessary information for that is included on the sanding page.
TRIMMING TIPS
Trimming veneer is generally an easy process, as a simple utility knife can get the job done. However, there are certain points to take note concerning which directions to make the cuts, cutting for veneers with varying backers, and cutting with tools other than a utility knife.